COLOMBIA

We land at José María Córdova Airport, where an English-speaking guide meets us with a sign bearing our names. From now on there is nothing to worry about – the transfer to the hotel is arranged, and our first kilometres in Colombia pass in conversation with a person who will gladly give us the first pointers about the country and the city.

Our road leads to Medellín – a city nestled between hills where spring seems never to leave. We check in in the El Poblado district, where we will spend the next four nights, and leave the rest of the day free – for a first walk, a first coffee, the first smiles from strangers who will soon cease to be strangers.

We stay at York Luxury Suites – modern, spacious apartments with a kitchen and automated control of lighting and air conditioning – or at Click Clack Medellín – a design hotel with unusual details and a view of the mountains, in the very heart of El Poblado.

We begin the day with a half-day private tour devoted to Medellín's most astonishing story.

Only three decades ago this city was among the most dangerous in the world – in the shadow of Pablo Escobar's drug cartel. But after his fall in the early 1990s, Medellín did something few cities manage: it chose to change. In the 2000s the local authorities bet on deep change – investing in infrastructure, public education and social programmes that breathed new life into entire neighbourhoods.

Today Medellín is a symbol of resilience, innovation and hope. During the tour we will ride its innovative transport system, look closely at its modern architecture and hear the story of the city through the eyes of the locals themselves – the way no textbook can tell it. A journey through contrasts that shows how a city becomes a global example of urban and social transformation.

In the evening the city reveals its other essence – the musical one. The half-day private night tour "Rhythms of the City" immerses us in Medellín's most passionate melodies. We choose a rhythm: urban beats, the fiery spirit of tango or the lively swing of salsa. A guide specialising in the chosen genre takes us through emblematic bars and cultural venues where music and dance are at the centre of everything. Entrance fees, shared snacks, transport and expert guiding are included – for an evening we will remember for a long time.

Recommendation: comfortable clothing and readiness to dance – the most important thing is to plunge into the local atmosphere.

Second night in Medellín.

Today a full day on the road awaits us – about ten hours of adventure.

Only 79 km from Medellín, in the picturesque eastern highlands of Antioquia, nestles the town of Guatapé. We travel along scenic roads, and the landscape changes before our eyes – hills, lakes, green slopes. And then we see it: El Peñol – a monolith 220 metres high that looks as if someone dropped it from the sky into the middle of the valley. Climbing it is a challenge – over 700 steps – but the reward is a view that silences us: a panorama over a labyrinth of lakes, islands and bays.

This labyrinth is the Peñol–Guatapé reservoir – a network of bodies of water that also hosts one of Colombia's most important hydroelectric plants.

The village of Guatapé itself is a real colourful jewellery box. On the façades of the houses are painted colourful "zócalos" – decorated lower parts of the walls that tell of the traditions and daily life of the locals. Its iconic church and streets where every stroll is a pleasure complete the picture.

We have a traditional Colombian meal on the shore of the reservoir, take a boat ride on its waters and leave time for an unhurried walk around the village.

Distance: 79 km from Medellín • Duration: about 10 hours

Third night in Medellín.

We can't be in Colombia and not talk about coffee.

Today we go to a traditional coffee farm nestled among the hills of Medellín – just a short distance from the noisy city. In a matter of minutes we are transported to the quiet Colombian countryside, where growing coffee is not a job but a way of life.

With a guide we tour the plantations and follow the whole journey of coffee – from the plant to the cup. We get to know the daily life of the Colombian coffee farmer and see how much labour and dedication stand behind one of the country's most emblematic export products. We meet the farmers themselves and for a while live at their rhythm.

An English-speaking guide is included. The rest of the day is free – for last walks around Medellín, for conversation with the locals and for one last look at the colours of the city.

Last night in Medellín.

Today we trade the mountains for the sea. Transfer from the hotel to José María Córdova Airport and a flight to the Caribbean coast.

In Cartagena a private transfer meets us and takes us straight to the heart of the Historic Centre. Here we will spend the next three nights – at Hotel Don Luis by Faranda, a colonial hotel with high ceilings and an impressive staircase, with a pool and jacuzzi overlooking the old town, or at Hotel Charleston Santa Teresa – a luxury boutique hotel in a former convent, in the very heart of a UNESCO World Heritage site.

We leave the rest of the day free – to feel the first waves of the Caribbean breeze, get lost on the cobbled streets and watch the afternoon light paint the colonial façades in warm colours.

First night in Cartagena.

Today Cartagena reveals its secrets.

We begin with the San Felipe de Barajas fortress – the largest fortification built by the Spanish in their colonies. For about an hour we explore this masterpiece of military architecture in coral stone and learn how the city's defence was organised and how the terrain worked in its favour.

Then we return to the Historic Centre to visit the museum in the Convent of San Pedro Claver – a former Jesuit monastery from 1605, home of the man who went down in history as the "Slave of the Slaves". A two-hour walk follows through the city's main squares, churches and streets, and along the fortress walls we find the best views of the sea and the most important bastions.

Optional: after the San Felipe fortress we can climb to La Popa – an ancient convent at 150 metres above sea level, from whose panoramic platform the city spreads out like the palm of your hand. With this choice the visit to the Convent of San Pedro Claver is dropped; La Popa is paid for separately (the supplement does not apply to groups of over 15 people).

In the late afternoon (recommended from 16:00 onwards) a two-hour "Rum and Chocolate" excursion awaits us, devoted to the best-known drink of the Caribbean – rum.

The Spanish brought to the Americas many things that changed the continent, and the locals turned them into their own identity. Such is sugar cane, which here has reached a whole new level and today is the basis of one of the most refined drinks on the planet. We are picked up from the hotel and walk to the bar, where an experienced mixologist tells us the story and characteristics of rum. We taste different Colombian rums – some of them considered among the best in the world – and discover how small changes in the process give life to such different flavours and emotions. After this lesson, enjoying a glass of rum becomes a real experience.

Recommendation: comfortable clothing, walking shoes and sun protection. The excursion runs every day.

Second night in Cartagena.

We get up early – today a day at sea awaits us.

Transfer from the hotel to the port in Cartagena. The boat departs from La Bodeguita port at 08:30 (it is advisable to be there by 08:00). We head for the Rosario Islands, about 40 km southwest of the city – an archipelago of 27 picturesque islands with coral reefs, clear waters, a gentle breeze and marine life, including dolphins. The area, together with the Barú islands and the San Bernardo archipelago, is officially protected.

We spend the whole day on San Pedro de Majagua island – with enough time to enjoy nature and lounge on the beach. We are welcomed with a fruit cocktail, and refreshing wet wipes and a beach towel (one per person) are provided.

Lunch is typical of the Caribbean: a choice of whole fried fish, grilled chicken, meat or a vegetarian dish with rice and vegetables, accompanied by coconut rice and patacones, a drink (water, soft drink, natural juice or national beer), traditional Cartagena sweets and Colombian coffee.

The return boat leaves between 14:30 and 15:00, depending on weather conditions. A transfer to the hotel awaits us at the port.

Distance: about 40 km by sea • Transport is on a shared boat

Third night in Cartagena.

Our last morning in Colombia. After breakfast – transfer from the hotel to Cartagena airport, where our journey home begins.

Colombia has left us with the feeling of a country that never stops reinventing itself – a city that turned its pain into inspiration, green hills with the aroma of coffee, a monolith rising above lakes, coral-stone fortresses and islands immersed in turquoise. Until the next adventure!